Koh Pha-Ngan

Day 1: Early boat from Koh Samui to Koh Pha-Ngan. Whilst I got on it on time, for some reason it then didn't leave the port for another 2 hours!!! That was quite enjoyable considering we were all packed in like Sardines. No-one had any idea why we were hanging around that long either, which was nice.

When we did finally depart, the journey to Pha-Ngan was pretty short and we arrived late morning. Having been in communication with Jakob and Miriam, I jumped in a mini-van to their Bungalows to see if I could join them. Getting pretty busy on the island at this time, with the full moon party only a few days away and I had been advised by a few people not to stay near Haad Rin Beach. This is the beach that the party happens on and there have been countless stories of Bungalow break-ins in that area on party night. Thankfully, my german friends had found a nice spot a few miles away so I headed there.

On the way, our crazy mini-bus driver got too close to a couple of motorcyclists and ended up knocking them off their bike and into a shallow ditch by the side of the road. There were about 10 of us on the bus, shocked when it happened and all looked back anxiously to see if they were all right. The driver on the other hand, didn't even notice and there was still no response from him when we shouted that they were alright. Madness.

I arrived at the Bungalows and managed to check in, but it was only available for one night (something I feared they might say). When it gets close to the party, a lot of places force people to book at least 4 nights stay, as was the case here. I checked in but would have to try and find somewhere else for tomorrow.

Once I'd dumped my stuff, I went searching for the guys and within a couple of seconds heard a german accent shout out ''BUTTSY'' (Jakob has developed a fondness for my nickname). As luck would have it, I'd ended up right next door to them. Miriam was there too so we caught up for a while, having not seen each other in a few weeks. Afterwards, Jakob gave me a ride to a scooter rental place he was using so I could hire one for a the next few days. We then stopped at a local bar for coffee with some locals he had befriended.

Afterwards, I took a short walk down the beach and got really lucky in finding a place for the next few nights. Another Bungalow, not as nice as the others but it would do the job for the next few days. I booked in there and then the 3 of us headed out for a curry and some beers to celebrate Jakob's birthday. He was turning 30, meaning it was going to be his last night smoking supposedly. We shall see. We then lit a fire on the beach that night.

Day 2: When I got up the next day, I met the guys for breakfast to find that Jakob had not been to bed just so he could delay quitting. Haha. Apparently, the deal meant that as soon as he slept, he would be able to smoke no more so he was putting it off as long as possible. Not exactly encouraging signs.

The three of us were then joined by another german guy called Sebastian, who was also staying nearby. We all headed off on our scooters on the long journey to the top of Koh Pha-Ngan, to a small, beautiful island called Koh Ma. The guys know Koh Pha-Ngan really well and Jakob seems to see it as his home from home, so I was grateful for him navigating us there (no chance I would have got there by myself). It did take longer than he predicted though, probably to do with the lack of sleep.

Koh Ma is really nice and we spent the afternoon on the beach and snorkelling. The visibility there was unbelievable and there was so much to see, considering we were only snorkelling Lots of Tunafish and Bannerfish and some really nice corals as well. Actually saw more there than on a couple of my dives in Koh Tao. Was really good.

On the way back, the 4 of us stopped for dinner at a quality food market they had been going to. Mussaman Curry was the choice for me once again but there was loads else to choose from. So cheap as well.

Day 3 (Full Moon Party Day) : After speaking to him the previous night, I had to wait around near my Bungalow for Mitja to arrive. He had been up in Bangkok and, after some confusion over the date of the party, he had to head down pretty quick to make it. Nothing available accomodation-wise so I said he could share with me when he arrived at lunchtime.

After chilling on the beach for a bit, myself and Mitja headed into the town for a couple of beers and a few games of pool. Jakob and Miriam had to get some things sorted for their flight home so we agreed to meet them later for some pre-party bevvies.

After getting some supplies in and lining our stomachs for the party, we spent a couple of hours getting merry at the Bungalows and then the local bar. Got chatting to a couple of dutch girls, one of whom, wasn't a fan of the party and warned us off going. Good luck with that! We then had a white-knuckle Jumbo (Big Tuk-Tuk) ride to Haad Rin to get the party started. A few buckets later, we were dancing the night away and Mitja and I stayed until 3.30am. Pretty battered by that point so headed back. The party was pretty good although it was tough to avoid all the electronic and trance music being played (not my thing). The bars aren't very spaced out either so you get some weird musical mixes as you walk along the beach as well. All had a good timebut if I had to choose, Tubing in Vang Vieng wins over the Full Moon Party every time.

Day 4: Woke up feeling surprisingly ok so after breakfast, the 4 of us headed up to Koh Ma again so Mitja could see it. We headed a bit further out to sea this time, around the bay and the snorkelling was even better than the previous visit. Once I returned to the beach, I found Jakob and Mitja using some manufactured long wooden poles trying to knock down some coconuts from trees behind the beach. After initially just laughing at their efforts, I decided to help out and half an hour later, we had one each to devour on the beach. Tiring work though let me tell you. We spent the rest of the afternoon there before heading back towards our Bungalows.

Was cool having scooters to cruise around the island because Koh Pha-Ngan is really beautiful. Some people just head here for the Full Moon Party and then leave straight away and they are missing out because there's some spectacular scenery and views around the island. Granted I didn't see as much of Koh Tao and Koh Samui but Koh Pha-Ngan is definately my favourite of the eastern islands.

We stopped at the food market again that evening and enjoyed a few more beers on the beach. Lovely.

Day 5: My last day with the guys as I'd decided to head to a place called Khao Lak the day after. All determined to make the most of it, we headed down to Haad Rin beach to see how it looked by day. I couldn't believe my eyes when we got there because the beach was absolutely spotless and you would have no idea there had been tens of thousands of people partying on it 2 days previous. A really nice beach and lots of people there soaking up the sun and enjoying the waves.

Mitja and I then borrowed a ball from some other travellers and had a much needed kick-about on the beach. Almost forgotten what it feels like to have a ball at my feet so it felt good to be playing. My touch wasn't too bad either considering. Spent the rest of the afternoon down there.

After yet another visit to the food market (repetitive but the food was too good to ignore) and then spent the evening at the Bungalows again for some more drinking and a few games of poker. We then said our good byes as I had to be up at 5.30am the next morning and it will be the last time we see each other on the trip. Mitja heading home in a few days, Jakob and Miriam planning on chilling there for the rest of their lives I think! Was really sad leaving them all as we had had a brilliant few days and such a good laugh. I did have the option of staying for longer but was itching to do some more diving before heading to Malaysia. Sorry to leave the guys but I've no doubt I'll see them all again at some point. All friends for life I hope and each has been a key part of my memories from south-east asia. Will really miss them all. Off to bed for me...Khao Lak bright and early.