Kong Lor Cave

Day 1: This trip wasn't on my initial itinerary but after reading some travel books and a good recommendation from back home (cheers Ali), I decided to make it my next stop.

The cave is much further south in Laos, so I knew it would take a few days out of my trip. I was just hoping it would be worth it. Pick up was at 9am from my guest-house in Vientiane and then it was a half hour tuk-tuk ride to the bus station. Met a nice Australian couple (Felicity & Andrew) on the tuk-tuk and we had a good chat.

The bus set off at 10am and it was going to be a pretty long trip. Not much to report here I'm afraid, other than chatting some more to the aussies and listening to my Ipod - I was listening to the Backstreet Boys if anyone cares.

We arrived at the village next to the cave at about 4.30pm. Seriously, in the middle of nowhere. The scenery was very nice though - limestone cliffs all the way down to the cave. Not many locals about (very small village) but the ones that were, were very friendly and happy to exchange a nice ''sabaidee'' (hello) with us as we all arrived. I checked into a guesthouse (not many to choose from so thankfully the price was cheap - we couldn't really argue if they had quoted us loads. Like I said, middle of nowhere).

I then met another aussie couple (Erin and Peter), who had just checked into the same guesthouse and would be doing the cave tomorrow as well. They were also very nice and we got on really well. They had been travelling across S.E.Asia on just their bicycles, which I thought was quite impressive. A great way to do it if you have the time (and energy) as there's some fantastic scenery.

The 3 of us then wondered down to check out the opening to the cave, which was a 1km walk away. Beautiful spot down there and the cave looked very intriguing. We were all looking forward to the boat-ride through it tomorrow.

That evening, the 3 of us settled down for dinner with 3 others, who had done the cave trip that day. Ross & Cheryl (from Swindon unbelievably - small world) and Matt (New Zealand). They were all buzzing about the cave and had really enjoyed it so it seemed as though we had made a good decision. We all had dinner together....well, sort of. It was a family guest-house we were staying at and they could only cook one meal at a time, meaning they got served in the order they were ordered. Luckily, I ordered first so I was alright - Peter ordered last and had quite a wait. I didn't know that was going to happen, honest.

After dinner, the 6 of us had a few beers and settled down to play cards for a few hours (the nightlife wasn't up to much in the village). Had a great laugh with them all - really nice people and we all compared trips and gave each other tips on places to visit. Matt gave me some great recommendations for New Zealand as well, which I was grateful for. We then said good-night and goodbye as they were getting a bus to Vientiane at 7am the following morning (and I wasn't getting up to wave them off). All exchanged emails / facebook info and then it was off to bed.

Day 2: Got up just before 8am, as we were told that the cave wouldn't be open until then. Myself, Erin and Peter walked down, paid the boatmen near the cave and we were good to go.

The first part of the cave, you need to walk through as there are a number of boulders blocking the entrance. When you get just inside, there are loads of longboats ready to go. We got in one, with our 2 guides - each equpped with a highly necessary headlamp and off we went.

The light disappeared pretty fast behind us to the point where it was pitch black, barring the headlamps. It was amazing - like nothing I've seen before. The cave is huge and goes up so high in some places. We made it to about half way and we then had the opportunity to get out and walk through the cave for 15 minutes. This was also brilliant - some really unusual sculptures and there was enough lighting for us all to get some decent pics. Thankfully, the don't over-do the lighting so you can still find your way around without the creepiness of the cave being lost. We got back in the boat (not very smoothly) and then continued to the other end.

Like I said, the cave is 7km long and it took us about an hour to get to the other end - that's pretty long. Grateful to see some light at last, the other end of the cave was just as picturesque as the start. We stayed there for a half-hour break to take some pictures and watch the water Buffalo that were hanging around.

Back in the boat and through the cave back to the start. No stopping for a walk this time, apart from the points where the boat got stuck, as the water was quite shallow in some areas. I was quite popular with one of the guides for helping them, while walking barefoot on the pebble floor (if they can do it, why can't I). In reality, it hurt quite a bit but I didn't let it show. Very brave.

We made it back to the start and all reflected on an amazing experience. The travel book had compared the cave to something out of Indiana Jones and you couldn't really argue after doing the trip. That cave will take some beating in my eyes. One of the highlights of the trip so far.

That evening, the 3 of us hung out with another couple, who had arrived to do the cave tomorrow. A guy from Spain (Alberto I think - had made some arrangement with his work that allowed him to travel for THREE YEARS - he had only completed one. Dunno how he managed that) and his Brazilian girlfriend, whose name escapes me. Played cards for a few hours with them and Alberto gave me some great travel tips and my favourite quote of the trip so far. When I said I had planned to spend a week in Rio De Janeiro later in the trip, he said: ''Yeah a week is ok but if you're travelling alone, maybe 15 days''. Haha - sounds like a good place and I'll see what I can do.

Also worth a mention is this little boy, who was one of the sons of the family who ran the Guesthouse & Restaurant. I think he must only be about 8, yet he was the only one who spoke even partial english (and his was pretty good, considering the obscurity of the village he comes from). He was able to take all our food and drinks orders and sort out the payments for everything. I don't know how he's ended up learning it so well but respect to the little man. We would all have been a bit stuffed without him! 

I then tried to plan how best to get out of the village and get to Vietnam. This was quite tricky and there wasn't anyone in the village who could speak enough English to help me out (travel book was no good either). So I decided to get the 7am bus back to Vientiane in the morning. It would mean going back on myself but I thought I'd rather do that and know where I am than risk getting lost in the middle of nowhere. Early start for me then.

Day 3: Said goodbye to Peter and Erin - fantastic people, some of the nicest I've met on the trip so far. I then boarded the bus and off we went.

Quite a major tyre burst on the journey, which involved the 3 guys running the bus having to work as a team to get it changed. I did think about offering to help but they seemed to have a pretty good system going and I'd have probably just slowed them down. Anyway, it took them about 30 mins to do it and the tyre was completely ruined - don't know what we ran over.

Got back to Vientiane about 4pm and immediately booked a 24 hour overnight bus to Hanoi, Vietnam for that evening. It would mean yet more travelling but the cave trip had put me a few days behind my plan and I wanted to get to Vietnam asap. Bus was coming at 6pm so I just had time to get some food and chill out for a bit.